• Storage run to Des Moines
    Lake Ogalalla State Recreation Area Campground

    Although our quest has been to sell nearly everything we own, we’ve been setting aside the things that we know we can’t or don’t want to part with. The question then is, What to do with them? Luckily a few great friends have offered to store some bins at their homes. Our aforementioned friend and all around good sport, Jessica, offered us a corner for the things that can survive a humid Midwest basement.

    “One bin or 12, whatever you need.”

    We decided the best time to run everything over would be early June when Jeff already had an annual golf trip lined up with some Des Moines buddies. For the record, it’s hard to go through everything, ev.er.y.thing, you own and decide what’s essential — to you — to keep.

    We ended up taking six bins full of sturdy art objects, my beloved pots and pans and flatware, some special glassware, mementos of our son, etc. We fit them all in the bed and backseat of the truck, which meant that we were camping with only what we could fit in the HMS Beangle. Our road bikes were attached to the back of the trailer. It was good practice for this fall.

    The apartment block

    Our first stop was at Lake Ogalalla SNA, just inside Nebraska. We could have gone further, but the campground looked like a good one, and we were able to convince the telephone reservations lady to let us stay only one night instead of the usually required two for weekend stays since they had a (great) campsite (right on the water) that had a single night available between reservations. We pulled into the Electric Plus area and were definitely the odd duck out tucked between massive RVs and fifth-wheel trailers. Some of them so big they could barely make the loop’s turn. Truly homes on the road. A few people watched us drive by, gaping, as if we had floated down from another planet.

    Golden hour paddling

    Water is the big draw to the area, with many campers bringing along large boats for use on the big reservoir behind the dam. Our little lake at the foot of the reservoir was perfect for smaller fishing boats, kayaks, and stand up paddle boards. Puddles of kids splashed around on the beach next to us, while trains of whitewater kayaks circled the perimeter as people practiced turning, rolling, and steering.

    As the sun dropped, we got a fire going and made dinner over the coals. There’s just something about the crackle and pop of wood turning black, red, white that unknots any tension.

    We were surprised to see that the lake’s water level had dropped a good foot or more by the time we woke up. They must have held back some water overnight.

    Contented Fisherman at PRSP

    The weather wasn’t looking too friendly after we left, so we pushed all the way into Iowa and landed at Prairie Rose State Park. The campground was nearly empty, which surprised us. The few campers there were quite friendly though, stopping by to chat and say hello, and the park was meticulously maintained. I can understand why several campers said they come back year after year. It’s a bit of a drive off the highway to get to PRSP, so maybe that explains why it wasn’t busier. I finished my first book that evening.

    Baby bird – Baltimore Oriole

    Almost immediately upon parking at Acorn Valley Campground outside of Des Moines, Jeff found a baby Baltimore Oriole on the asphalt by the bathhouse. It looked like it had either fallen out of its nest or over estimated its flying abilities, as it did have flight feathers. Despite reaching a few feet up into some bushes, it wasn’t able to get up into the tree canopy. The papa bird flew rations down throughout the evening, but we doubted it would be enough help. The wee bird’s calls were heart-rending, but there wasn’t anything useful we could do. Jeff heard a pair of owls hooting to each other during the night. We fear the circle of life played itself out as we never saw the baby oriole again.

    While Jeff was off golfing in Illinois, I continued to hear the owls’ haunting calls night after night. My timing was always off though; I never did catch their calls on my Merlin app. A colony of bullfrogs serenaded the campground night after night from a small pond, a nice distraction on some very sultry nights.

    Although I spent the bulk of my days relaxing and reading (book two down), I also saw a few friends, attended a two year old’s birthday breakfast, cooled off at the beach, saw a friends’ new house, hung out with my favorite toddler (who thinks I’m ‘really strong’), talked editing work with another friend, ate at one of my favorite restaurants, and spent some time worrying about the nation’s descent into authoritarianism.

    The last few months have not been a fun time for someone whose history cognate focused on the rise of Fascism and the history and literature of the Holocaust, believe me. The parallels to what we’re seeing here and what we saw as Putin took over Russia with the help of (and for the benefit of) the Russian oligarchy are horrifying. As I texted just a couple days ago, we Americans like to think we’re special and that it can’t happen here. We aren’t, it can, and it is. My little travel blog isn’t the place to get into it (mostly because I don’t want it to be), but it’s been on my mind a lot lately.

    Coolest rig in the park

    Some people really go all out with their campsite decorations, pithy signs and awning lights and tomato plants oh my, but I think this RV really hit a home run in that department. You just know they make their Bloody Mary mix from scratch and can offer up a bespoke charcuterie platter for drop-in guests.

    We’re overnighting at Lake Johnson SRA in Nebraska tonight. It’s… a place to stop overnight. Friendly staff, nice lake, decent brewery pub across the street. It’s just not our speed. Enough said.

  • Camping with friends from yore

    Bob, Pam, and their shiny Airstream met up with us on the edge of the Sangre de Cristo mountains last weekend. After arriving, we laughed about the miles of cow pastures we’d all nervously driven through, wondering if we’d ever find the tree-wrapped campground we’d only ever seen photos of online. Thankfully the pin-straight road made a couple of sharp turns at the end of the wide valley and climbed up a dirt road to our weekend home.

    We hadn’t seen Bob and Pam for more than 15 years and quickly fell to catching up. The years dissolved like cotton candy upon a tongue. The weather was perfect. The drinks cold. The hiking trails waiting.

    Alvarado Campground’s many campsites are laid out in a rough, smashed S-curve up the mountainside. It looks like a lot of work has been put into keeping things pleasant and well-maintained. Few people were camping this early in the season, but we all had a bit of a wide-eyed giggle noticing the *cough* upside-down ‘tropical fruit’ flag at one of the other trailers. Thanks but no thanks.

    Saturday morning dawned bright and cheerful, so after a hearty breakfast we hunted out the nearby Rainbow Trail. A steep climb up put us on the right path. We enjoyed views over the valley, strolls through the forest, and crossed a pretty waterfall. I found lots of use for the Seek app on my phone and identified several wildflowers in bloom.

    Bob and Jeff were constantly swinging their heads to identify local birds and birdsong. Bob’s Merlin app was getting a workout, verifying calls and filling out his life list. I truly don’t know how they see animals moving among the branches so easily and differentiate the different bird calls so quickly. It’s an amazing skill.

    Photo by Jeff

    Later, while making dinner, we noticed that the wind was coming up and the sky looked and felt like rain. Jeff suggested we eat inside the Airstream and that was a good decision as rain and then hail — again with the hail! — started coming down. We chatted comfortably, the rain came and went, and finally Jeff and I headed back to the Beangle for the night.

    Around midnight, I found that the clouds had finally cleared. The sky was majestic, dark and deep and full of stars. I found a few of the better known constellations right away but realized right away that I need to get better acquainted with the night sky again. I’m looking forward to a lot more opportunity to do that soon.

  • The HMS Beangle meets Type 2 Fun

    The Scene: It’s a national holiday weekend. A dear friend has spent her hard-earned money to fly in for the weekend. A rustic campsite high in the mountains is reserved.

    After a long day of far too many commitments, Friday evening found the Beangle and I dropped off as 1) the campsite must be reserved for a minimum of three nights due to the holiday weekend; and 2) the campsite must be occupied the first night or the reservation is forfeited.

    Jeff drove back to town so that he could collect Jess from the airport bright and early on Saturday morning. I got the trailer and tent set up for adventuring, made myself a quick dinner of roasted beets and pumpkin seeds, and gratefully followed the sun to sleep, in awe of the beauty of the place and the pleasant weather.

    Saturday dawned bright and early without a cloud in the sky. I could tell this was going to be A Good Day. About a half hour after I crawled out of bed, they arrived with many smiles and lots of hugs. We immediately stowed Jess’ gear and grabbed our backpacks. It was time for some hiking.

    We opted for the Burning Bear trail, a rocky 4 miles out and back amongst lodgepole pines to a ridge line, above a pretty alpine fen (peat bog). You’re never too far from mining and homesteading history in these mountains, as the remains of this log cabin along the trail reminded us. We’re lucky the dry mountain air has kept so many of these artifacts from disappearing altogether.

    On Sunday morning, we watched one campsite group after another pack up and head out. Even though we knew there was a chance of some rain in the afternoon, we thought it odd that so many were leaving. Wimps.

    We decided to go for a drive and head further up the Guanella Pass, possibly even to Georgetown for lunch. I learned from an informational placard at a turnoff that the odd trees with pinecones only on top that I’d been seeing are called Engelmann Spruce and often live for 450 years. I’m still confused about the evolutionary benefit to having its pine cones only at top of the tree.

    Reaching the Guanella Pass Summit, we had a clear view of Mount Bierstadt to the east

    Photo by Jess

    and the route to the Square Top Lakes to the west.

    Photo by Jeff

    It was a 7 mile hike, one way, to Bierstadt and 4 miles to the other, and a bit late in the day to start either hike, so after a bit of gazing, we continued on toward Georgetown. Along the way, we saw a few cars stopped along the roadside. “Bear?” we all asked.

    Photo by Jess

    Imagine our surprise when we saw not just a moose but a mother and her yearling munching on aquatic grasses in a low wetland behind a partial screen of evergreens.

    Georgetown is an adorable former mining town that has embraced its history with well maintained homes from the late 1800s, a scenic tourist steam train service, and a shopping district full of frontier-era storefronts. We stopped at one and bought some old-fashioned candies, which admittedly tasted like they’d entered the antique stage. Even so, we were delighted to see candies with so many childhood memories attached to them.

    We noticed that the fog we’d encountered on the way in had increased significantly. As we drove back up the mountain, it became a real pea souper until we broke through the clouds near the summit. Thankfully it was significantly less thick on the southern side of the pass. The fog was picturesque near our campground, but we still didn’t think too much about it.

    Soon after returning to camp, the rain started. Then the rain turned into a downpour. We didn’t worry about it. We just piled into the Beangle to read, rest, and ride it out. Suddenly thunder was cracking overhead and hail was pounding the Beangle’s roof. After a few minutes, in true cartoon-style, we looked outside and saw Jess’ tent had collapsed under an inch of hail. We burst out laughing and I noted that we’d moved fully into Type 2 Fun.

    There was nothing we could do about it until the storm passed, so we played Gin Rummy. Eventually the storm stopped. We scraped, pushed, and pulled sheets of frozen hailstones off the tent and re-set the supporting poles. Despite the rain and hail, the tent’s interior was bone dry. Good job, little Nemo tent.

    Photo by Jeff

    Back in the trailer, we went through round two of rain, thunder snow, and hail. Jess chose to sleep in the backseat of the truck versus risking another hail avalanche. It rained, thundered, and hailed some more until about midnight, ultimately freezing the ground solid.

    The tent held.

  • A week under the wheels

    How do I do justice to such a strange turn in the road of our lives? We had our up and our downs.

    Big up, he found the driving pretty much a non-issue, despite having to go up Berthoud Pass (11,307 ft) and down its twisty switchbacks again. Major down, the storage garage we rented was narrower than listed and the trailer is wider than spec’ed. There is no way it was going to fit. Not a fun find after a week of driving. So tomorrow I need to find a new place ASAP to store the Beangle for 3.5 months.

    Overall, it was a good intro week. We camped in all kinds of weather and saw big horn sheep on a hillside and bear claw marks on several trees. He fished a bit and we both read. There were a lot of naps. We tried out most of the trailer’s systems and accessories and ate some yummy meals despite only having the discada, a campfire, and a medium pot to cook in. We made do.

    Black bear claw marks on young pine tree

    Next weekend our good friend Jessica is flying in for a quick visit. If the weather cooperates we’ll head back into the mountains with her.

  • Dinosaur National Monument

    After a quick overnight at Wasatch Mountains State Park, we wended our way to Dinosaur National Monument outside of Jensen, Utah. Straddling two states, the most visited part, the covered dinosaur quarry exhibit, is in Utah. But there is so much more than just the Fossil Wall to see.

    We barely touched even the Utah side of things. We saw the Fossil Wall, of course, and a few Native American pictographs and petroglyphs.

    We visited the rough log cabin inhabited by a remarkable settler, Josie Morris, who raised cattle and other farm animals, grew fruits and vegetables, and maintained a sizable ranch all on her own from the age of 40 to 90 — from 1914 until 1964 — with none of the modern conveniences that we’re used to: water, electrical, sewer, or gas/propane. Afterwards, we hiked into the two box canyons that acted as her cattle pens, and later along the Green River.

    We’ve rested and relaxed a lot, figured out how our trailer’s systems and setups work, and plotted out things to make our future travel time easier and more efficient.

    The landscape so far has been stunning. We often just stop and gawk. Around each turn of the road there seems to be different and ever more magnificent rock formations. One by the entrance looks like huge undulating snake, another by the cabin resembles a giant tortoise. They range from deep reds, fiery oranges, turmeric yellows, and brilliant whites to charcoal grey. They appear to change depending on the cloud cover, the time of day, and the presence of rain. And it’s all tied together by the Green and Yampa Rivers. How could we not stop and marvel?

    We haven’t even scratched the surface of (petroglyphed?) all that there is to see here. We’d like to come back for a longer dive into Dinosaur National Monument someday.

    Unfortunately we don’t have the time to give the Colorado portion a visit this week. I’m especially sad about missing that section as that’s the portion, per an executive order, is projected to be opened up for mineral and gas exploitation. If what happened at Bears Ears NM last time around is any indicator, the delicate landscape at DNM will be ravaged. There are plant species there that grow nowhere else on earth. I hope they haven’t been drilled and mined to oblivion by the time we can get back here.

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  • The HMS Beangle
    The HMS Beangle

    There she is, The HMS Beangle, our made-to-order Bean Stalker. Although we will continue to keep a small patch in Colorful Colorado, we intend to spend as much time as possible in this lovely little teardrop trailer. The ever talented Miss Carmen will be personalizing it for us once we get home, after she has a chance to see how much terrain she has to work with.

    The trailer’s name comes from a wish to incorporate the manufacturer’s name into a historical name that brings to mind travel, adventure, and discovery. Our dear friend, Eileen Cook, writer and wordsmith extraordinaire, quipped, “Beangle?” as a nod toward the voyages of the HMS Beagle, of which we’d just been discussing. We all knew immediately that it was perfect.

    The HMS Beangle comes to us with batteries fully charged, so we only needed to fill the propane tanks for our first week of camping.

    It’s been such a pleasure working with the sales and production teams at Bean Trailer. They have a great line-up of trailers, from basic to extreme, should anyone be looking for a similarly amazing small trailer. No, they aren’t cheap and they certainly aren’t for everyone (“What?! No toilet, no shower?!”), but we’ve seen enough already to say with Bean, you get far more than you paid for.